The "no nasties" ingredient trend has gone from the food aisle to beauty shelves - with free of plastered on product labels. Here's the lowdown on what's just hype and what's truly unhealthy.
1. Sulfates
Love how your hair gets all sudsy when you wash it? Thank sulfates, detergents found in shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers.
- The Drama: Hair pros often blame sulfates for fading your color. And sulfates can strip the scalp of moisture and natural oils, causing dryness and irritation.
- What You Need To Know: When it comes to color, the real culprit is water, not sulfates. As strands swell with moisture, dye molecules can escape through the cuticle. (However, sulfates can indirectly contribute to color fade by removing your hair's natural oils, which seal the cuticle.) If you have a sensitive scalp or fickle skin, proceed with caution, as sulfates can be drying.
2. Talc
This naturally occurring mineral helps some makeup, powders, and deodorants absorb oil and sweat.
- The Drama: There have been consumer reports linking talc to ovarian cancer.
- What You Need To Know: According to the American Cancer Society, talc's link to cancer is unclear; the International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies talc-based body powder as "possibly carcinogenic" when used around the genitals. And while some lab-based and human studies have found that talc exposure increases the risk of ovarian cancer, others have not.
3. Phthalates
These chemicals were once widely used to do a variety of things, like make hair spray flexible and nail polish chip-free. Today, due in large part to the advocacy efforts of health groups, the only phthalate commonly used in cosmetics is diethylphthalate (DEP), as a fragrance solvent.
- The Drama: Phthalates are absorbed through the skin and can pose reproductive risks, including infertility.
- What You Need To Know: Reports have shown toxic effects in animals that are exposed to phthalates, and the data in humans also suggests health risks. The FDA maintains that the link between phthalates and human health is unclear, while the EU has banned the use of certain phthalates in cosmetics entirely.
4. Parabens
These preservatives are used to prevent the growth of bacteria in everything from masks to mascara.
- The Drama: Studies show that parabens act like estrogen in the body-and increased estrogen can cause both normal and cancerous breast cells to grow and divide.
- What You Need To Know: Parabens have been found in breast-cancer tissue and have been shown to stimulate breast-cancer cell proliferation. However, they're also found in the urine of the majority of the population, and the FDA says it does not have sufficient evidence to claim parabens have an effect on human health.
5. Fragrance
Fragrance is ubiquitous in beauty - it can even exist in products that are labeled unscented (translation: the manufacturer may add just enough fragrance to mask the odor of other ingredients without adding a true scent).
- The Drama: By law, brands can list fragrance on a label without disclosing the ingredients that make up the blend (these often include other controversial ingredients, such as DEP, or potentially irritating ones, like certain alcohols).
When "Free Of" is B.S.
- Gluten-Free: Unless you have celiac disease and are eating your beauty products, there is likely zero benefit to their being gluten-free. The one exception: lipstick. Since it goes near your mouth, it may be wise to buy a gluten-free tube.
- Allergen-Free: Bottom line: There is no way a brand can prove that every ingredient in a product is 100 percent safe for every individual. Depending on your skin type, anything from vitamin C to organic coconut oil can irritate skin. Remember: If you have sensitive or reactive skin, patch-test your products first.
- Chemical-Free: Technically, water and plant extracts are chemicals too. When brands position themselves this way, they're likely referring to a lack of synthetic ingredients in their formulas. Keep in mind that many studies prove certain synthetics to be super beneficial (cue glycolic acid!), so you may not want to rule them out entirely.
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